Autumn is the season Kyoto residents wait for. From mid-November the hillsides around the city turn red and gold, temple gardens open in the evening for illuminations, and the summer humidity is finally gone.
It is also the busiest time of year. This guide covers when to come, which gardens are worth your time, and how to plan the days so the crowds don't decide them for you.
When the leaves turn
Colour arrives from the north and from higher ground first. In the city itself, the peak usually falls between 15 and 30 November, with Arashiyama and the northern hills about a week ahead of the centre.
Planner's tip: if your dates are fixed in early November, head for Kurama and Kibune in the northern hills, which turn 7 to 10 days earlier than central Kyoto.
Where to go
You could spend a week on gardens alone. These are the ones we send first-time visitors to:
- Tofuku-ji for the view over a valley of maples from the Tsutenkyo bridge.
- Eikan-do for the evening illumination and its reflecting pond.
- Arashiyama for the river, the bamboo grove and the Sagano scenic railway.
- Kiyomizu-dera for the wooden stage above the trees at sunset.
How to beat the crowds
Start early. Most temples open at 8:30 or 9:00 and are calm for the first hour. Save the famous spots for weekdays, and keep weekends for smaller gardens such as Enko-ji or Genko-an.
A guided day trip helps here: transport between areas is arranged, and guides know which gates are quiet at which hour.
What to book ahead
Hotels fill two to three months out for the last two weeks of November. Evening illuminations at Eikan-do and Kodai-ji don't take reservations, but dinner nearby does, so book that first and plan around it.
Aiko Tanaka
Trip planner based in Kyoto. Aiko has guided walking tours of Higashiyama for nine years and writes our seasonal guides.
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