Onsen etiquette: what to do before you get in

A soak in an onsen is one of the best things you can do in Japan, and one of the things first-time visitors worry about most. The rules are simple, and nobody expects a guest to be perfect. Follow these and you will be fine.

Wash first, then soak

The bath is for soaking, not for washing. Before you get in, sit at one of the washing stations, and scrub and rinse thoroughly with the soap and shampoo provided. Rinse the stool and bucket when you are done.

What to do with the towels

You get two: a large one that stays in the changing room, and a small one you take to the bath. The small towel never goes in the water. Most people fold it and rest it on their head, or leave it on a rock at the side.

• No swimwear. Baths are separated by gender, and everyone bathes naked.
• Tie up long hair so it stays out of the water.
• Keep your voice down and leave your phone in the locker.

Tattoos

Many public baths still refuse guests with tattoos. Things are changing: some places allow small tattoos covered with a skin-coloured patch, and tattoo-friendly lists are easy to find online. The reliable option is a private bath, called kashikiri or kazoku-buro, which you can book by the hour at most ryokan.

If you are unsure, ask at reception before you pay. Staff would much rather answer a question than turn you away at the door.

After the bath

Dry off with the small towel before you walk back into the changing room, so the floor stays dry. Then drink something: the water is hot, usually between 40 and 42 degrees, and it is easy to get dehydrated.